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Кремоварение: ошибки приготовления эмульсии в домашних условиях
Кремоварение: ошибки приготовления эмульсии в домашних условиях
Эта статья подробно разбирает наиболее распространенные ошибки, которые новички и даже опытные мастера допускают при приготовлении эмульсий (кремов, лосьонов) в домашних условиях. Мы объясним, почему эти ошибки происходят, как их избежать и что делать, если ваша эмульсия расслоилась или не получилась. Цель — помочь читателям создавать стабильные, эффективные и приятные в использовании косметические продукты.
Почему нельзя заменять воду на гидролат в косметическом рецепте — и как его использовать правильно
Почему нельзя заменять воду на гидролат в косметическом рецепте — и как его использовать правильно
Эта статья объясняет, почему прямая замена воды на гидролат в косметических рецептах может быть ошибкой. В ней подробно описываются различия между водой и гидролатами, их уникальные свойства и правильные способы использования гидролатов для максимальной пользы в домашней косметике. Читатели найдут практические рекомендации и советы по комбинированию этих компонентов для создания эффективных и безопасных средств.
Product Description

TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB: The Natural Silicone Alternative for Superior Skin Feel

Unlock the secret to luxurious, velvety skin with TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB, an exceptional plant-derived emollient manufactured in Germany. This colorless to pale yellow liquid with a medium viscosity is your go-to solution for enhancing the sensory experience of your cosmetic and dermatological formulations. It's a premium natural silicone alternative that offers remarkable benefits, including improved spreadability, reduced tackiness, a silky-smooth feel, enhanced moisturization, and improved compatibility with lipophilic active ingredients.

Description and Key Features

TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB (INCI: Coco-Caprylate/Caprate) is a cutting-edge emollient derived from coconut, designed to deliver the desirable sensory attributes traditionally associated with silicones, but with a natural origin. It's highly soluble in oils and fats but insoluble in water, making it an ideal component for the oil phase of your formulations.

Key features:

  • Natural Silicone Alternative: A sustainable and biodegradable alternative to dimethicone and other volatile silicones, offering a comparable or superior skin feel.
  • Enhanced Sensory Characteristics:
    • Improved Spreadability: Helps products glide effortlessly over the skin, ensuring even distribution.
    • Reduced Tackiness: Minimizes the sticky or greasy residue often associated with oil-based formulations.
    • Velvety Skin Feel: Imparts a luxurious, soft, and powdery sensation, leaving skin feeling smooth and supple.
  • Boosted Hydration: Contributes to enhanced moisturization, leaving the skin feeling hydrated and comfortable.
  • Increased Compatibility with Lipophilic Actives: Improves the dispersion and efficacy of oil-soluble active ingredients, optimizing your product's performance.
  • Versatile Dosage: Can be incorporated at a wide range of concentrations (1-25%) depending on the specific product type and desired effect.
  • Clear and Odorless: Its colorless or pale yellow appearance and neutral scent ensure it won't interfere with the final color or fragrance of your product.

Versatile Applications and Usage Areas in Cosmetics and Beyond

TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB is a highly versatile emollient that can significantly elevate the quality and performance of a diverse range of products. Its ability to improve sensory characteristics while being plant-derived makes it an excellent choice for natural and clean beauty formulations.

  • Cosmetic Applications:
    • Creams and Lotions (1-5% dosage): Ideal for facial and body creams, imparting a light, non-greasy feel and improving spreadability, making daily moisturizing a more enjoyable experience.
    • Fluid and Serum Formulations: Enhances the elegance of lightweight serums and fluids, ensuring quick absorption and a silky finish without a heavy residue.
    • Body Oils and Massage Oils (up to 25% dosage): Creates luxurious, non-tacky body oils that glide smoothly over the skin, providing excellent slip for massage without feeling overly greasy.
    • Sun Protection Products: Improves the sensory profile of sunscreens, reducing the common sticky or heavy feel, making them more pleasant to apply.
    • Decorative Cosmetics:
      • Foundations and BB Creams: Enhances spreadability and provides a smooth, non-oily finish, improving the application and feel of liquid and cream makeup.
      • Lip Products: Can improve the texture and glide of lipsticks, lip glosses, and lip balms, making them feel more comfortable on the lips.
    • Cleansing Products: While not a primary cleansing agent, it can be incorporated into oil-based cleansers to improve their texture and rinse-off properties, leaving the skin soft rather than stripped.
  • Other Industries and Specialized Formulations:
    • Pharmaceuticals: Its excellent skin compatibility and sensory properties make it suitable for various topical dermatological preparations, especially where a non-irritating, soothing feel is desired.
    • Baby Cosmetics: Gentle and naturally derived, it's an excellent choice for baby lotions, creams, and oils, ensuring a soft touch on delicate skin.
    • Natural Formulations: As a plant-derived emollient, it perfectly aligns with the growing demand for natural, clean-label cosmetic products.

TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB is a superior ingredient for formulators aiming to create products with an exceptional skin feel, superior spreadability, and a desirable non-tacky finish, all while embracing natural and sustainable raw materials.

Cosmetic Recipe: "Silky Smooth" Natural Body Lotion

Create a luxurious, naturally-derived body lotion with a silky-smooth feel, utilizing TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB as your silicone alternative.

Ingredient Percentage (%) Function
Phase A (Water Phase)
Distilled Water Up to 100% (approx. 72.5%) Lotion base
Glycerin 3% Humectant, draws moisture to skin
Phase B (Oil Phase)
Emulsifying Wax (e.g., Polawax) 5% Emulsifier, binds water and oil phases
Shea Butter 4% Nourishing, moisturizing, skin-softening
Sweet Almond Oil 8% Lightweight, conditioning, easily absorbed
TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB 5% Natural silicone alternative, improves spread, reduces tack, velvety feel
Phase C (Cool Down Phase)
Preservative (e.g., Geogard 221) 1% Protects against microbial growth
Fragrance Oil (optional) 0.5% Adds pleasant scent
Vitamin E 0.5% Antioxidant, skin conditioning

Instructions for Lotion Preparation:

  1. Sanitation: Thoroughly sanitize all equipment and containers (beakers, stirrers, lotion bottles) using isopropyl alcohol and allow them to air dry completely.
  2. Phase A (Water Phase): In a heat-resistant beaker, combine distilled water and glycerin. Heat on a double boiler or in a microwave until it reaches 70-75°C (158-167°F).
  3. Phase B (Oil Phase): In a separate heat-resistant beaker, combine emulsifying wax, shea butter, sweet almond oil, and TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB. Heat on a double boiler or in a microwave until all solid ingredients are completely melted and the temperature also reaches 70-75°C (158-167°F).
  4. Emulsification: Slowly pour the hot water phase (Phase A) into the hot oil phase (Phase B) while continuously stirring with a stick blender or whisk on low speed. Continue blending until a homogeneous emulsion forms. The mixture will start to thicken as it cools.
  5. Cooling: Continue stirring the emulsion periodically as it cools to room temperature (below 40°C / 104°F) to ensure a stable and uniform product.
  6. Phase C (Cool Down Phase): Once the lotion has cooled to below 40°C (104°F), add the preservative, optional fragrance oil, and Vitamin E. Stir thoroughly after each addition to ensure all ingredients are fully incorporated.
  7. pH Check (Optional but Recommended): Check the pH of your finished lotion. For body lotions, an optimal pH is typically between 5.0-6.0. Adjust if necessary using a diluted solution of lactic acid (to lower) or sodium bicarbonate (to raise).
  8. Packaging: Transfer the finished lotion into a clean, sanitized pump bottle or jar.

Recommendations for Use:

  • Dosage of TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB: The 5% inclusion rate in this cream recipe provides a noticeable improvement in spreadability and skin feel. For oil-based serums or massage oils, you can increase the dosage up to 25% for an even more luxurious, non-tacky finish.
  • Heating Phase: Always add TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB to the oil phase and heat it along with other oil-soluble ingredients to ensure proper integration into the emulsion.
  • Sensory Testing: After making a small batch, test the lotion on your skin to experience the enhanced velvety feel and improved spreadability. This will help you fine-tune the dosage in future formulations.
  • Storage: Store the finished lotion in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.
  • Versatility: This base lotion can be customized with various active ingredients (e.g., botanical extracts, humectants) and different fragrance profiles to create a range of unique body care products.
Characteristics:
INCI Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Other
Application Application in cosmetics: creams, lotions, fluids, serums, oils, sunscreens, decorative cosmetics, cleansing products Application in other industries: pharmaceuticals, children's cosmetics, massage oils, dermatological preparations, natural formulas
Att brand Germany
Color product colorless or slightly yellow
Dosage from 1 to 25% depending on the type of product (1–5% in creams, up to 25% in oil formulas)
Features Avoid contact with eyes; do not exceed the dosage to avoid adverse effects
Name TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB 30 g
Other names Caprylic/Capric Coconut Ester, Coco-Caprylate, Natural Silicone Alternative
Packaging container for transportation
Packing 30 g
Properties improves product distribution, reduces stickiness, adds velvetiness, enhances hydration, increases compatibility with lipophilic actives, replaces dimethicone and other volatile silicones
Purpose Plant-based emollient to replace silicones, soften, moisturize and improve sensory characteristics
Solubility soluble in oils and fats, insoluble in water
View medium viscosity liquid
Valid until 08.2027
Reviews (1) Add a review
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  • Date:
    today
    Author:
    Майя, Эдинбург
    Reviews

    Дуже рада, що знайшла цей магазин. Тепер я можу створювати косметику, яка ідеально підходить моєму типу шкіри.

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