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Кремоварение: ошибки приготовления эмульсии в домашних условиях
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Почему нельзя заменять воду на гидролат в косметическом рецепте — и как его использовать правильно
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Эта статья объясняет, почему прямая замена воды на гидролат в косметических рецептах может быть ошибкой. В ней подробно описываются различия между водой и гидролатами, их уникальные свойства и правильные способы использования гидролатов для максимальной пользы в домашней косметике. Читатели найдут практические рекомендации и советы по комбинированию этих компонентов для создания эффективных и безопасных средств.
Product Description

TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB: The Natural Silicone Alternative for Silky Smooth Formulations

Introducing TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB, a premium plant-derived emollient from Germany, designed to revolutionize your cosmetic formulations. This colorless to pale yellow liquid of medium viscosity offers an exceptional sensory experience, acting as a superior natural alternative to dimethicone and other volatile silicones. Soluble in oils and fats but insoluble in water, TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB enhances spreadability, reduces stickiness, imparts a luxurious velvety feel, boosts hydration, and improves compatibility with lipophilic actives, making it an indispensable ingredient for high-performance skincare and makeup.

Description and Key Features

TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB (INCI: Coco-Caprylate/Caprate) is a cutting-edge emollient derived from coconut, offering a sustainable and effective solution for achieving the desirable sensory properties traditionally associated with silicones. Its unique composition allows it to deliver a dry, silky feel upon application, without the drawbacks sometimes associated with synthetic alternatives.

Key features:

  • Natural Silicone Alternative: A 100% plant-derived replacement for dimethicone and other volatile silicones, aligning with the growing demand for natural and sustainable cosmetic ingredients.
  • Enhanced Sensory Experience: Significantly improves product spreadability, ensuring smooth and effortless application. It reduces stickiness and leaves a delightful velvety feel on the skin, enhancing user satisfaction.
  • Boosted Hydration: Contributes to increased moisturization by forming a breathable film on the skin, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss.
  • Improved Compatibility: Enhances the compatibility with lipophilic actives, facilitating better dispersion and absorption of oil-soluble ingredients into the skin.
  • Versatile Solubility: Easily soluble in oils and fats, integrating seamlessly into the oil phase of emulsions and anhydrous formulations. It is insoluble in water, making it suitable for water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsions.
  • Medium Viscosity Liquid: Its liquid form and medium viscosity ensure easy handling and incorporation into various cosmetic bases.
  • Colorless to Pale Yellow: Maintains the aesthetic integrity of your formulations without imparting unwanted color.

Versatile Applications and Usage Areas in Cosmetics and Beyond

TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB is a highly versatile emollient, making it an excellent choice for a broad spectrum of cosmetic and personal care products, as well as applications in other industries where skin feel and formulation stability are paramount. It is not used for candles.

  • Cosmetic Applications:
    • Creams, Lotions, and Fluids (1-5%): Significantly improves the feel of everyday moisturizers, making them less greasy and more luxurious. It helps create light, fast-absorbing textures.
    • Serums (1-5%): Ideal for enhancing the spread and feel of facial and body serums, leaving a smooth, non-tacky finish.
    • Facial Oils and Body Oils (up to 25%): Provides an elegant, dry-touch feel to oil-based formulations, reducing the heavy or greasy sensation often associated with pure oils.
    • Sunscreen Products (1-10%): Improves the spreadability of sunscreens, making them easier to apply evenly without leaving a white cast or sticky residue. It can also enhance the feel of higher SPF formulations.
    • Decorative Cosmetics (1-10%):
      • Foundations and BB/CC Creams: Enhances glide, improves blendability, and contributes to a smoother, more natural finish.
      • Lip Products (Lipsticks, Lip Glosses): Reduces tackiness and improves the slip of lip products, making them more comfortable to wear.
      • Concealers: Facilitates easier application and better blendability.
    • Cleansing Products (1-5%): Can be incorporated into oil cleansers, cleansing balms, and creamy facial washes to improve spreadability and leave a soft, conditioned feel after rinsing.
    • Hair Masks and Balms (1-5%): Provides a silky feel to hair, enhancing detangling and imparting shine without heavy build-up.
  • Other Industry Applications:
    • Pharmaceuticals: Due to its excellent skin compatibility and sensory properties, it is suitable for dermatological preparations, especially those requiring a pleasant skin feel for patient compliance.
    • Baby Cosmetics (1-5%): Its mildness and natural origin make it ideal for gentle baby lotions, creams, and oils.
    • Massage Oils (up to 25%): Creates a non-greasy, silky glide for professional and at-home massage oils, enhancing the sensory experience.
    • Natural Formulations: A key ingredient for formulators aiming to create products with high natural content, without compromising on performance or luxurious feel.

Dosage: The recommended dosage ranges from 1% to 25% depending on the product type:

  • 1-5% in creams, lotions, and emulsions.
  • Up to 25% in oil-based formulas like facial oils, body oils, and massage oils, where it excels in providing a dry-touch finish.

Its versatility and performance make TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB a go-to ingredient for creating sophisticated, high-quality, and naturally-inspired personal care products for a global market.

Cosmetic Recipe: "Silken Touch" Velvety Facial Cream

Create a luxurious, fast-absorbing facial cream with a velvety, non-greasy finish using TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB as a key emollient.

Ingredient Percentage (%) Function
Phase A (Water Phase)
Distilled Water Up to 100% (approx. 70%) Base of the cream
Glycerin 3% Humectant, draws moisture to the skin
Xanthan Gum (optional, for stability) 0.2% Thickener, stabilizer (pre-disperse in glycerin)
Phase B (Oil Phase)
Emulsifying Wax (e.g., Polawax) 5% Emulsifier, binds water and oil phases
Shea Butter 3% Emollient, deeply moisturizes and nourishes
Jojoba Oil 5% Non-greasy emollient, mimics skin's natural sebum
TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB 3% Natural silicone alternative, enhances spread, reduces stickiness, imparts velvety feel
Phase C (Cool Down Phase)
Preservative (e.g., Geogard 221) 1% Protects against microbial growth
Vitamin E 0.5% Antioxidant, skin conditioning
Fragrance Oil/Essential Oil (optional) 0.2-0.5% Provides desired scent

Instructions for Cream Preparation:

  1. Sanitization: Thoroughly sanitize all equipment (beakers, stirring rods, containers) with isopropyl alcohol and allow to air dry completely.
  2. Prepare Phase A: In a heat-resistant beaker, combine distilled water and glycerin. If using xanthan gum, pre-disperse it in the glycerin before adding water to prevent lumps. Heat the water phase to 70-75°C (158-167°F).
  3. Prepare Phase B: In a separate heat-resistant beaker, combine emulsifying wax, shea butter, jojoba oil, and TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB. Heat the oil phase to 70-75°C (158-167°F) until all solid oils and waxes are completely melted and the phase is clear.
  4. Emulsification: Slowly pour the heated water phase (Phase A) into the heated oil phase (Phase B) while continuously stirring with a stick blender or hand mixer on low to medium speed. Continue blending until a homogeneous emulsion forms. The emulsion will begin to thicken as it cools.
  5. Cooling: Continue stirring intermittently as the cream cools down to below 40°C (104°F) to ensure a smooth texture and prevent separation.
  6. Add Phase C: Once the cream has cooled below 40°C (104°F), add the preservative, vitamin E, and any optional fragrance or essential oils. Stir thoroughly to ensure all ingredients are well incorporated.
  7. pH Adjustment (Optional but Recommended): Check the pH of the finished cream. For facial creams, an optimal pH is typically between 5.0 and 6.0. Adjust if necessary using a diluted solution of lactic acid (to lower) or sodium bicarbonate (to raise).
  8. Packaging: Transfer the finished cream into a clean, sanitized jar or airless pump bottle.

Recommendations for Application and Use:

  • Dosage of TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB: The 3% inclusion rate provides noticeable improvements in skin feel, making the cream spread smoothly and feel velvety. You can adjust this percentage based on your desired sensory profile, staying within the recommended range of 1-5% for creams.
  • Integration: Always add TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB to the oil phase of your emulsions, as it is oil-soluble.
  • Temperature Sensitivity: While TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB is stable at high temperatures, ensure that any heat-sensitive ingredients in your Phase C (like certain actives or essential oils) are added only when the emulsion has cooled to the recommended temperature.
  • Storage: Store the finished cream in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight, to maintain its stability and effectiveness.
  • Sensory Benefits: Highlight the "velvety," "non-sticky," and "smooth spreading" properties of your cream, directly attributable to the inclusion of TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB.
  • Silicone-Free Claim: This ingredient allows you to formulate "silicone-free" products while still delivering a luxurious skin feel.
Characteristics:
INCI Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Other
Application Application in cosmetics: creams, lotions, fluids, serums, oils, sunscreens, decorative cosmetics, cleansing products Application in other industries: pharmaceuticals, children's cosmetics, massage oils, dermatological preparations, natural formulas
Att brand Germany
Color product colorless or slightly yellow
Dosage from 1 to 25% depending on the type of product (1–5% in creams, up to 25% in oil formulas)
Features Avoid contact with eyes; do not exceed the dosage to avoid adverse effects
Name TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB 1 kg
Other names Caprylic/Capric Coconut Ester, Coco-Caprylate, Natural Silicone Alternative
Packaging container for transportation
Packing 1 kg
Properties improves product distribution, reduces stickiness, adds velvetiness, enhances hydration, increases compatibility with lipophilic actives, replaces dimethicone and other volatile silicones
Purpose Plant-based emollient to replace silicones, soften, moisturize and improve sensory characteristics
Solubility soluble in oils and fats, insoluble in water
View medium viscosity liquid
Valid until 08.2027
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    Author:
    Гелена, Харків
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    Отличный сервис и ассортимент.

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