MONTANOV™ 202: The Ultimate Emulsifier for Luxurious, Stable Formulations
Unleash the power of superior emulsion stability and a premium skin feel with MONTANOV™ 202, a high-performance, white, wax-like granular emulsifier proudly produced in France. This unique, oil-soluble ingredient (INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, and Arachidyl Glucoside) is designed to create incredibly smooth, glossy, and stable emulsions, from lightweight milks to rich creams, without the need for co-emulsifiers. Its distinctive properties ensure an effortless formulation process and exceptional results in your cosmetic products.
Description and Key Features
MONTANOV™ 202 is a non-ionic, liquid crystal emulsifier derived from natural, renewable resources. It's renowned for its ability to form lamellar liquid crystal structures, which are highly biomimetic to the skin's own lipid layers. This unique structure provides remarkable emulsion stability, prevents phase separation, and delivers a luxurious, non-greasy, velvety feel on the skin. Its characteristic, subtle scent does not interfere with your final product's fragrance.
Key features and benefits:
- Exceptional Emulsifying Power: Forms highly stable oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions with a wide range of oil phases, even at low concentrations.
- Luxurious Skin Feel: Creates light, non-tacky, and non-greasy textures that absorb beautifully, leaving skin feeling soft, smooth, and hydrated.
- Liquid Crystal Technology: Its ability to form lamellar liquid crystal structures enhances emulsion stability and provides a sophisticated skin feel, mimicking the skin's natural structure.
- Single Emulsifier: Often functions effectively as the sole emulsifier in a formula, simplifying your formulation process.
- Cold Process Compatible (with adaptations): While typically hot-processed, its liquid crystal structure can be leveraged for cold process emulsions with specific techniques for certain formulations.
- Natural Origin: Derived from plant-based sources, making it a desirable choice for natural and eco-conscious formulations.
- Odorless & White: The white granules and characteristic (neutral) scent ensure it won't impact the color or fragrance of your final product.
Versatile Applications and Usage Areas in Cosmetics
MONTANOV™ 202 is an incredibly versatile emulsifier, suitable for a vast array of cosmetic applications. Its ability to create various textures, from thin lotions to thick creams, makes it a go-to for formulators (not for use in candles).
Recommended Usage Rates:
- Gel-milks: 0.5-1.5%
- Lotions & Makeup Removers: 2-3%
- Sunscreen Products (Beach Cosmetics): 3.5-4%
- Decorative Cosmetics (Foundations, Primers): 4-5%
- Hair Conditioners & Hair Creams: 2%
Detailed Applications:
- Skincare Emulsions (Creams, Lotions, Serums):
- Lightweight Lotions and Milks: At lower concentrations (2-3%), MONTANOV™ 202 creates elegant, fast-absorbing lotions perfect for daily body care, facial moisturizers for oily/combination skin, and makeup removers.
- Rich Creams and Balms: At higher concentrations (3.5-5%), it forms stable, nourishing creams for dry or mature skin, eye creams, and overnight treatments, providing a rich, occlusive feel without heavy residue.
- Serums and Gels: Can be used to create milky serums or light gel-creams that deliver active ingredients effectively while providing a pleasant skin feel.
- Sun Care Products (Beach Cosmetics):
- Its excellent stability makes it ideal for challenging sunscreen formulations (3.5-4%), ensuring broad-spectrum protection remains evenly dispersed and effective, even after exposure to water. It contributes to water resistance.
- Hair Care Products:
- Conditioners and Hair Creams: At 2%, it produces smooth, detangling conditioners and leave-in hair creams that improve manageability, add shine, and provide a silky feel without weighing hair down.
- Hair Masks: Can be incorporated into nourishing hair masks for deep conditioning and repair.
- Decorative Cosmetics:
- Foundations, BB/CC Creams, Primers: At 4-5%, it creates stable, blendable, and comfortable-wearing decorative cosmetic bases that provide a smooth canvas for makeup application, offering a natural finish and ensuring long wear.
- Cleansing Products:
- Cream Cleansers and Cleansing Milks: Formulates gentle yet effective cream cleansers that remove impurities without stripping the skin's natural moisture barrier, leaving skin soft and hydrated.
Formulation Peculiarities:
- Melting: The emulsifier should be melted into the oil phase at approximately 85°C.
- Mixing: After combining the heated oil and water phases, start stirring at slow speeds, gradually increasing the speed.
- Homogenization: A coarse dispersion will rapidly transform into a smooth, shiny emulsion within three to four minutes of continuous mixing, indicating the formation of the stable liquid crystal structure.
MONTANOV™ 202 is an essential ingredient for formulators aiming to create high-quality, stable, and aesthetically pleasing cosmetic products that truly delight the senses.
Cosmetic Recipe: "Silky Radiance" Hydrating Face Cream
Create a luxurious, hydrating face cream with a beautiful, non-greasy feel, perfectly emulsified with MONTANOV™ 202.
Ingredient
|
Percentage (%)
|
Function
|
Phase A (Aqueous Phase)
|
|
|
Distilled Water
|
Up to 100% (approx. 78.5%)
|
Base of the cream
|
Glycerin
|
3%
|
Humectant, draws moisture to the skin
|
Phase B (Oil Phase)
|
|
|
MONTANOV™ 202
|
3.5%
|
Primary emulsifier, creates liquid crystal structure
|
Sweet Almond Oil
|
8%
|
Lightweight emollient, nourishing
|
Jojoba Oil
|
5%
|
Skin-mimicking, moisturizing, non-comedogenic
|
Shea Butter
|
3%
|
Rich emollient, deeply moisturizing
|
Cetyl Alcohol (co-emulsifier/thickener)
|
2%
|
Provides body, stability, and skin feel
|
Phase C (Cool Down Phase - Add below 40°C)
|
|
|
Vitamin E
|
0.5%
|
Antioxidant, skin conditioning
|
Essential Oil/Fragrance Oil (optional)
|
0.5%
|
Adds scent
|
Preservative (e.g., Geogard Ultra)
|
1.5%
|
Protects against microbial growth
|
Instructions for Preparation:
- Sanitize: Thoroughly sanitize all your equipment (beakers, stirring rods, pH meter, cream jars) with isopropyl alcohol and allow them to air dry completely.
- Prepare Phase A (Aqueous Phase): In a heat-resistant beaker, combine distilled water and glycerin. Heat this phase to approximately 85°C (185°F).
- Prepare Phase B (Oil Phase): In a separate heat-resistant beaker, combine MONTANOV™ 202, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, and cetyl alcohol. Heat this phase to approximately 85°C (185°F), ensuring all solid ingredients are fully melted.
- Emulsification: Once both phases reach 85°C, slowly pour Phase A into Phase B (or vice versa, but adding aqueous to oil is often preferred for MONTANOV™ 202 for better liquid crystal formation), stirring continuously with a mini-mixer or whisk. Begin at a slow speed and gradually increase the speed. Continue mixing for 3-4 minutes until a smooth, glossy, and homogeneous emulsion forms.
- Cool Down: Continue stirring the emulsion as it cools. This helps maintain the stability and texture. You can place the beaker in an ice bath to speed up cooling. Stir until the temperature drops below 40°C (104°F).
- Add Phase C (Cool Down Phase): Once the emulsion is below 40°C, add Vitamin E, your chosen essential oil or fragrance oil (if using), and the preservative. Stir thoroughly to ensure all ingredients are well incorporated.
- Check pH (Recommended): Test the pH of your finished cream. For a face cream, an ideal pH range is typically 5.0-6.0. Adjust if necessary by adding a tiny drop of diluted lactic acid to lower pH or diluted baking soda solution to raise pH.
- Package: Carefully transfer the finished cream into clean, sterile cream jars.
Recommendations for Application and Use:
- Temperature Control: Adhering strictly to the 85°C melting temperature for MONTANOV™ 202 in the oil phase is crucial for proper liquid crystal formation and emulsion stability.
- Mixing Speed: The gradual increase in mixing speed during emulsification is key to forming a smooth, shiny, and stable cream. Don't rush this step.
- Batch Size: For beginners, start with smaller batch sizes to get comfortable with the emulsification process.
- Skin Type: This cream is versatile, suitable for most skin types, especially those seeking deep hydration without a heavy feel.
- Storage: Store the finished cream in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight, to maintain its efficacy and extend its shelf life. The preservative is vital for preventing microbial growth.
- Application: Apply a small amount to clean face and neck daily, both morning and evening, massaging gently until absorbed.
And also go to the Blog from Мыло Опт, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics