Arugula Hydrolysate 500 ml

Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves (Indau-Delicatesse / GSH-DEFENSE): Nature's Protective Elixir for Skincare

Unleash the potent benefits of Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves, an exceptional active complex from Italy's Phenbiox, also known by its synonyms Indau-Delicatesse and GSH-DEFENSE. This straw-colored liquid is a powerhouse of natural defense, offering unparalleled protection and rejuvenation for the skin. Highly soluble in water at any concentration, this innovative ingredient is designed to be seamlessly integrated into a wide range of cosmetic formulations, delivering remarkable results globally.

Description and Key Features

Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves (Eruca Sativa) is a cutting-edge active ingredient derived from the humble arugula plant. Through a specialized hydrolysis process, the beneficial compounds within the leaves are broken down into easily absorbed forms, maximizing their efficacy. This "active complex" is particularly noted for its ability to boost the skin's natural antioxidant defenses, specifically by enhancing glutathione (GSH) production. Glutathione is a master antioxidant crucial for neutralizing free radicals and protecting cells from oxidative stress, which is a primary cause of premature aging and skin damage.

With a pH range of 2.6 – 3.5, this ingredient integrates well into acidic and slightly acidic formulations, maintaining product stability. Its straw-colored liquid form makes it easy to incorporate without significantly altering the aesthetic of your final product. The Phenbiox brand guarantees a high-quality, scientifically backed ingredient, making it a reliable choice for formulators seeking natural yet powerful solutions.

Diverse Applications and Usage Areas in Cosmetics

Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves offer a broad spectrum of benefits across various cosmetic applications, thanks to its exceptional antioxidant and protective properties. Its recommended usage rates vary depending on the product type, ensuring optimal efficacy without compromising formulation integrity.

• Cleansing Products (Shower Gels & Bath Products) - 4%:
  • Incorporating Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves into washes helps protect the skin from environmental aggressors and the drying effects of cleansing, leaving skin feeling refreshed and soothed. It adds a protective layer, even in rinse-off products.
• Post-Peeling Care Products - 1.5-2%:
  • Its soothing and protective qualities make it ideal for skin recovering from chemical peels or harsh treatments. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and accelerate the skin's natural recovery process by boosting its intrinsic defense mechanisms.
• Masks, Bust Creams & Active Serums - 2-3%:
  • In targeted treatments, this active complex provides intensive antioxidant support, helping to prevent collagen degradation and maintain skin elasticity. For bust creams, it can contribute to firmer-looking skin by protecting against oxidative stress that can lead to laxity. In serums, it acts as a powerful anti-aging and environmental protection booster.
• Hydrating Body Cosmetics - 2%:
  • Adding it to body lotions, creams, and butters extends its protective benefits to the entire body, guarding against daily environmental damage and supporting overall skin health, especially in areas exposed to the elements.
• Whitening/Brightening Skincare - 2.5-3.5%:
  • While not a direct whitening agent, its ability to combat oxidative stress indirectly supports skin brightening by preventing the formation of free radical damage that can lead to hyperpigmentation. By reducing inflammation, it can also aid in evening out skin tone.
• Toners, Gels, Micellar Water - 1%:
  • Even at lower concentrations, Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves provides significant antioxidant benefits in leave-on products, preparing the skin to better withstand environmental stressors and enhancing its overall resilience. In micellar water, it can offer a gentle protective layer during cleansing.

The ability of Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves to enhance the skin's natural defense system makes it an invaluable ingredient for anti-pollution, anti-aging, soothing, and general protective skincare lines.

Cosmetic Recipe: Antioxidant & Soothing Facial Toner

Formulate a refreshing facial toner designed to soothe, protect, and prepare the skin, utilizing the powerful benefits of Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves.

Instructions for Preparation:

1. Sanitization: Thoroughly clean and sanitize all your equipment (beakers, stirring rods, bottles, etc.) before starting.
2. Phase A: In a clean beaker, combine the distilled water and rose hydrosol (if using).
3. Phase B: Add the Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves, Niacinamide, Glycerin, and Allantoin to Phase A. Stir well with a sanitized stirring rod until all powdered ingredients are fully dissolved and the solution is clear. Gentle warming (e.g., in a warm water bath) may help dissolve Niacinamide and Allantoin more easily if needed, but ensure the temperature doesn't exceed 40°C.
4. Phase C: Add the chosen preservative to the mixture and stir thoroughly for several minutes to ensure even distribution.
5. pH Adjustment: Check the pH of the solution using a pH meter or pH strips. It should ideally be between 4.5 and 5.5 for optimal skin compatibility. If the pH is too high, add very small drops of Lactic Acid solution (e.g., 10% dilution in water) and stir after each addition, re-checking the pH until the desired range is reached.
6. Packaging: Once the pH is stable and the mixture is well-incorporated, carefully transfer the toner into a clean, sanitized bottle (preferably with a spray or pump dispenser).

Recommendations for Use:

• Usage Rate: Adhere to the recommended usage rate of 1% for Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves in toners, gels, and micellar water to achieve optimal benefits without over-formulating.
• Incorporation: As Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves are water-soluble, they should be added to the water phase of your formulation, preferably during the cooling phase if heat is involved in other steps, or simply at room temperature for cold-process formulations.
• pH Considerations: Given the pH of the raw material (2.6-3.5), ensure your final product's pH is adjusted to suit skin compatibility (typically 4.5-5.5 for most leave-on products). This might involve using a pH adjuster like lactic acid or sodium hydroxide solution.
• Compatibility: While generally compatible, always perform a small-batch compatibility test when combining with other strong active ingredients to ensure stability and efficacy of the final product.
• Storage: Store the finished product in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight. The brown glass bottles are ideal for protecting light-sensitive ingredients, prolonging the product's shelf life.
• Application: After cleansing, apply the toner to a cotton pad and gently swipe across the face, or dispense into your hands and gently pat onto the skin. Follow with serums and moisturizers.
• Safety: Always conduct a patch test on a small area of skin before full application, especially if you have sensitive skin, to check for any adverse reactions.