Product Description
Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves (Indau-Delicatesse / GSH-DEFENSE): The Italian Secret to Radiant Skin
Unlock the potent benefits of nature with Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves, an exceptional active complex from Italy's Phenbiox. Also known as Indau-Delicatesse or GSH-DEFENSE, this straw-colored liquid is a powerhouse of dermatological advantages, designed to nourish, protect, and revitalize the skin. With its complete water solubility and a diverse range of recommended inclusion percentages, this ingredient is a must-have for formulators aiming to create cutting-edge, high-performance skincare.
Description and Key Features
Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves (INCI: Eruca sativa, Hydrolyzed rocket leaves) is a meticulously crafted liquid extract derived from rocket (arugula) leaves. Its characteristic straw-colored appearance and liquid form make it easy to incorporate into various cosmetic formulations. The key to its efficacy lies in its rich profile of beneficial compounds, particularly glucosinolates and isothiocyanates, which are known for their strong antioxidant and protective properties. With a pH range of 2.6 – 3.5, it's ideal for formulations that benefit from a slightly acidic environment, helping to maintain the skin's natural barrier. This ingredient's complete solubility in water at any concentration ensures seamless integration into aqueous phases of cosmetic products, preventing stability issues.
Versatile Applications and Usage Areas in Cosmetics
Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves offers a broad spectrum of applications in cosmetic formulations, leveraging its protective, soothing, and brightening capabilities. Its ability to combat oxidative stress and support skin health makes it a valuable addition to a wide range of products:
- Cleansing Products (Shower & Bath):
- Shower Gels and Bath Washes (4%): Incorporate into daily cleansing routines to provide a gentle protective layer against environmental stressors while cleansing the skin. It helps to soothe the skin, especially beneficial for those with sensitive skin prone to irritation from harsh cleansers.
- Post-Peeling Care Products:
- Post-Peel Serums and Creams (1.5-2%): Essential for calming and repairing skin after chemical peels or other intensive treatments. Its soothing properties help to reduce redness and discomfort, accelerating the skin's recovery process by supporting its natural defense mechanisms.
- Facial Masks, Bust Creams, and Active Serums:
- Masks, Bust Creams, and Active Serums (2-3%): Boost the efficacy of targeted treatments. In masks, it provides deep nourishment and protection. For bust creams, it can help improve skin firmness and resilience. In active serums, it delivers concentrated antioxidant benefits, protecting against premature aging.
- Body Moisturizing Cosmetics:
- Body Lotions, Creams, and Balms (2%): Enhances the overall health of body skin by providing antioxidant protection and maintaining hydration. It helps to keep the skin supple and resilient against daily environmental aggressors.
- Whitening and Brightening Skincare:
- Spot Treatments, Serums, and Creams (2.5-3.5%): Contributes to a more even skin tone and reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Its protective qualities help prevent new spots from forming due to environmental exposure, complementing other brightening agents.
- Toners, Gels, and Micellar Waters:
- Toners, Gels, and Micellar Waters (1%): Provides a delicate layer of protection and comfort in leave-on products. In toners, it helps to balance the skin's pH and prepare it for subsequent treatments. In gels and micellar waters, it offers a gentle, refreshing feel while delivering active benefits.
The flexibility of Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves in terms of application and concentration makes it an invaluable asset for cosmetic formulators worldwide, providing powerful natural benefits for a diverse range of skincare concerns.
Cosmetic Recipe: Anti-Pollution & Brightening Facial Toner
Create a refreshing and protective facial toner with Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves, designed to brighten skin and shield it from environmental stressors.
Ingredient
|
Percentage (%)
|
Function
|
Phase A (Water Phase)
|
|
|
Distilled Water
|
Up to 100%
|
Base of the toner
|
Glycerin
|
3%
|
Humectant, draws moisture to skin
|
Propanediol (or similar humectant)
|
2%
|
Solvent, humectant
|
Phase B (Active Phase)
|
|
|
Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves
|
2.5%
|
Antioxidant, protective, brightening
|
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
|
2%
|
Brightening, barrier support
|
Phase C (Preservation & pH Adjustment)
|
|
|
Preservative (e.g., Geogard 221)
|
0.8%
|
Protects against microbial growth
|
Lactic Acid (as needed)
|
q.s.
|
pH adjustment to 4.5-5.5
|
Instructions for Preparation:
- Sanitization: Ensure all your equipment (beakers, stirring rods, bottles, etc.) is thoroughly sanitized with isopropyl alcohol or a suitable sanitizing solution.
- Phase A: In a clean beaker, combine the distilled water, glycerin, and propanediol. Stir gently until all components are well mixed.
- Phase B: Add the Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves and Niacinamide to Phase A. Stir continuously until all powders are fully dissolved and the mixture is clear.
- Phase C: Add your chosen preservative to the mixture and stir thoroughly for several minutes to ensure even distribution.
- pH Adjustment: Check the pH of the toner using a pH meter or pH strips. The ideal pH for this toner is between 4.5 and 5.5. If the pH is too high, add a very small amount of Lactic Acid drop by drop, stirring well after each addition, until the desired pH is reached.
- Final Transfer: Carefully pour the finished toner into your chosen bottle (e.g., a spray bottle or a bottle with a dispenser cap).
- Labeling: Label your bottle with the product name, ingredients, and preparation date.
Recommendations for Use:
- Incorporation: Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves should be added to the aqueous phase of your formulations, preferably during the cooling phase if heat is involved in other steps, or simply at room temperature for cold-process formulations. Its complete water solubility makes it easy to integrate.
- Dosage: Adhere to the recommended usage percentages for specific product types (e.g., 2.5-3.5% for whitening, 1% for toners). Adjust based on desired efficacy and product type, but always stay within the recommended ranges to ensure optimal performance and safety.
- pH Considerations: While the ingredient itself has an acidic pH (2.6-3.5), it's crucial to adjust the final product's pH to suit the skin's natural pH (typically 4.5-5.5) for optimal efficacy and skin compatibility.
- Stability Testing: Always perform stability testing on your final product to ensure the integrity of the formulation over time, especially when introducing new active ingredients.
- Storage: Store Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves in its original, tightly sealed container in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and heat. This ensures its longevity and maintains its active properties.
- Compatibility: While generally compatible, always check for potential interactions with highly reactive ingredients in your formulation to ensure stability and efficacy.
What kind of cosmetic product are you most interested in creating with Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves?
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