Spermaceti (Cetyl Palmitate) 50 g

What this spermaceti is

The word spermaceti once meant a waxy substance taken from sperm whales. In modern cosmetics the name is used for cetyl palmitate, INCI Cetyl Palmitate, and that is what this product is. According to the product card, its composition is an ester of palmitic acid and cetyl alcohol, the country of production is Germany and the pack size is 50 g.

Cetyl palmitate is a wax ester. For a formulator it is a consistency factor for the oil phase: it adds body to creams and balms, firms lipstick sticks and leaves a smooth, velvety skin feel. You will find it in the skin firmness and tone actives category.

Key properties

The card describes white, glossy, wax-like lamellar crystals with no notable taste or odour. The melting range is 43 to 54 °C, so the material melts readily in a hot oil phase yet stays solid at room temperature. It dissolves easily in hot alcohol and essential oils and is insoluble in water.

Functions listed on the card include softening the skin, increasing emulsion stability, improving the feel of rich creams and conditioning skin and hair to ease combing.

Applications

Colour cosmetics

Lipsticks, eyeshadows, mascara, foundation and concealer pencils, where it adds hardness and a smooth glide.

Care emulsions

Creams for dry skin and body creams that need a richer body and less greasy shine.

Hair care

Hair masks and conditioning balms, alongside other conditioning ingredients.

How to use

The card gives a use level of 2 to 15%. Add it to the heated oil phase at 60 °C and wait until the crystals have fully melted. Stick products often combine it with ingredients from waxes for cosmetics, while softer balms pair it with butters.

Compatibility and processing notes

Cetyl palmitate blends well with vegetable oils, butters, waxes and fatty alcohols. It is not an emulsifier, so creams and conditioners need suitable emulsifiers as well. Higher levels make a product noticeably firmer and more matte, so run small trial batches before scaling up. In sticks, cetyl palmitate can partly replace harder waxes for a softer payoff, while in creams it adds a cushioned, rich feel without a heavy film. Let a new batch rest for a day before judging its hardness, because wax ester structures need time to settle after cooling.

Appearance and specifications

White glossy lamellar crystals, no notable taste or odour. INCI Cetyl Palmitate. Melting range 43 to 54 °C. Soluble in hot alcohol and essential oils, insoluble in water. Pack size 50 g. The card also states that sensitivity and allergy testing is mandatory.

Example: rinse-off conditioning hair mask

For 100 g, prepare the oil phase from 4 g spermaceti, 5 g cetearyl alcohol, 3 g behentrimonium methosulfate and cetearyl alcohol conditioning emulsifier and 3 g argan oil. The water phase is 82 ml distilled water and 2 g glycerin.

Heat both phases to 70 °C and check that the spermaceti has fully melted. Pour the oil phase into the water phase and stir with a mixer for 2 to 3 minutes. Below 40 °C, add 0.5 g tocopherol and a broad-spectrum preservative at the supplier's rate, about 0.5 g, then adjust the pH to 4.0 to 4.5. Apply to towel-dried hair for 5 minutes and rinse.

Storage

The card says to keep the ingredient in a refrigerator, away from sunlight. Keep the pack tightly closed.

FAQ

Is this spermaceti made from whales?

No. According to the card it is cetyl palmitate, an ester of palmitic acid and cetyl alcohol.

Where is it produced?

The country of production on the card is Germany.

What is the melting point?

The card gives a melting range of 43 to 54 °C.

How much should I use?

The card states 2 to 15%. The hair mask above uses 4%.