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Кремоварение: ошибки приготовления эмульсии в домашних условиях
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Почему нельзя заменять воду на гидролат в косметическом рецепте — и как его использовать правильно
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Эта статья объясняет, почему прямая замена воды на гидролат в косметических рецептах может быть ошибкой. В ней подробно описываются различия между водой и гидролатами, их уникальные свойства и правильные способы использования гидролатов для максимальной пользы в домашней косметике. Читатели найдут практические рекомендации и советы по комбинированию этих компонентов для создания эффективных и безопасных средств.
Product Description

Poppyderm: The Soothing Elixir for Sensitive and Reactive Skin

Introducing Poppyderm, a remarkable active botanical ingredient sourced from France, designed to bring profound relief and restoration to sensitive and reactive skin. This pale brown or beige powder/fine powder, also known as Red Poppy Extract (INCI: Maltodextrin, Papaver Rhoeas Flower Extract), is your ultimate ally against redness, irritation, and discomfort. Soluble in oils and fats but insoluble in water, Poppyderm delivers powerful soothing, protective, and restorative benefits, making it an indispensable asset for a wide range of skincare applications.

Description and Key Properties

Poppyderm is a highly concentrated extract derived from the delicate petals of the red poppy (Papaver Rhoeas). This unique botanical active is a powerhouse of soothing and protective compounds. Its fine powder consistency ensures easy incorporation into oil-based formulations, seamlessly blending to create luxurious skincare products.

Key properties include:

  • Pronounced Soothing Action: Poppyderm is renowned for its exceptional ability to calm irritated skin, significantly reducing discomfort and promoting a sense of well-being.
  • Redness Reduction: It actively works to diminish visible redness, making it ideal for skin prone to flushing or inflammation.
  • Decreased Skin Sensitivity: By reinforcing the skin's natural barrier, Poppyderm helps to lower skin reactivity and increase its tolerance to external aggressors.
  • Protection from External Irritants: It forms a protective shield, safeguarding the skin against environmental stressors and potential irritants.
  • Improved Overall Skin Condition: Regular use leads to a healthier, more balanced complexion, with enhanced comfort and vitality.
  • Antioxidant and Anti-inflammatory Effects: Its rich composition provides strong antioxidant protection, combating free radical damage, while its anti-inflammatory properties further aid in soothing stressed skin.

Versatile Applications and Usage Areas in Cosmetics and Beyond

Poppyderm is an incredibly versatile active ingredient, perfect for formulators aiming to create high-performance products for delicate, compromised, or aging skin. Its solubility in oils and fats makes it particularly well-suited for anhydrous (water-free) formulations or the oil phase of emulsions.

Key Applications in Cosmetics:

  • Sensitive Skin Formulations: Poppyderm is a core ingredient for products specifically designed for sensitive, reactive, or easily irritated skin, including facial creams, serums, and cleansers.
  • Anti-Aging Serums & Creams: Its antioxidant and restorative properties complement anti-aging formulations by improving overall skin health and resilience.
  • After-Sun Care Products: Provides immediate soothing relief and helps repair sun-stressed skin, reducing redness and discomfort after sun exposure.
  • Baby Cosmetics: Gentle and effective, Poppyderm is an excellent addition to baby lotions, creams, and balms to protect delicate skin from irritation and diaper rash.
  • After-Shave Products: Soothes razor burn, reduces redness, and calms irritated skin post-shaving, making it ideal for balms and lotions.
  • Anti-Redness Cosmetics: Specifically targets and reduces chronic or occasional redness, improving skin tone uniformity.
  • Face Masks: Incorporate into facial masks for an intensive soothing and calming treatment, especially beneficial for skin in need of immediate relief.
  • Body Lotions & Milks: Extends its soothing and protective benefits to the entire body, leaving skin feeling soft, comfortable, and less prone to irritation.

Applications in Other Industries (Cosmeceuticals & Professional Products):

  • Cosmeceuticals: Due to its potent active properties, Poppyderm is a prime choice for cosmeceutical lines targeting specific skin concerns like chronic inflammation, rosacea, or extreme sensitivity.
  • Post-Procedure Skincare: Essential for formulations designed for skin recovery after dermatological procedures (e.g., peels, laser treatments), accelerating healing and reducing post-procedure discomfort.
  • SPA Cosmetics: Enhances the therapeutic benefits of professional SPA treatments, providing a calming and restorative experience.
  • Natural Dermatological Products: Aligns perfectly with the principles of natural skincare, offering a botanical solution for common dermatological issues.

Recommended Dosage:

  • 0.5–2% in serums and creams for daily soothing and protection.
  • Up to 3% in masks and gels for a more intensive calming effect.
  • Up to 5% in lotions and sprays for broader application and enhanced benefits.

Poppyderm is not suitable for candle making.

Cosmetic Recipe: "Calm & Comfort" Soothing Facial Balm

Create a rich, comforting facial balm designed to soothe, protect, and restore sensitive and irritated skin, featuring Poppyderm as a key active ingredient. This anhydrous (water-free) balm is perfect for intense nourishment and can be applied to areas prone to redness or dryness.

Ingredient Percentage (%) Function
Phase A (Oils & Butters)
Shea Butter 30% Rich emollient, deeply nourishing and protective
Mango Butter 20% Softening, moisturizing, non-greasy feel
Jojoba Oil 15% Mimics skin's natural sebum, balances
Rosehip Oil 10% Regenerative, rich in antioxidants
Phase B (Thickeners & Actives)
Beeswax 15% Thickener, provides protective barrier
Poppyderm (Maltodextrin, Papaver Rhoeas Flower Extract) 2% Soothing, redness reduction, anti-inflammatory
Vitamin E (Tocopherol) 0.5% Antioxidant, skin conditioning
Bisabolol (natural, if desired) 0.5% Anti-inflammatory, calming
Essential Oil Blend (e.g., Chamomile, Lavender) 0.5% Gentle fragrance, additional soothing benefits
Phase C (For dry skin/additional protection)
Squalane (optional) 6.5% Enhances skin barrier, deep moisturization

Instructions for Preparation:

  1. Sanitization: Thoroughly sanitize all your equipment (beakers, stirring rods, containers) using isopropyl alcohol and allow them to air dry completely.
  2. Melt Phase A & B: In a heat-resistant beaker, combine Shea Butter, Mango Butter, Jojoba Oil, Rosehip Oil, and Beeswax. Gently melt them together using a double boiler or a very low heat setting, stirring occasionally until all ingredients are fully liquid and well combined.
  3. Incorporate Poppyderm: Once the mixture is melted and homogeneous, remove it from the heat. Add Poppyderm to the warm oil mixture. Stir continuously for 2-3 minutes to ensure the Poppyderm is fully dispersed and dissolved within the oils.
  4. Add Remaining Actives (Phase B & C): Add Vitamin E, Bisabolol (if using), your chosen essential oil blend, and Squalane (if using). Stir well to ensure all ingredients are evenly distributed.
  5. Pour into Containers: While the balm is still liquid, carefully pour the mixture into your clean, sterilized balm jars or tins.
  6. Cooling: Allow the balms to cool completely at room temperature. For a smoother finish, avoid moving them until fully solidified. Once solid, they can be capped.

Recommendations for Application and Use:

  • Dosage of Poppyderm: The 2% concentration of Poppyderm in this balm provides a significant soothing and protective effect. For particularly reactive skin, you could increase it to 3% while adjusting other oils/butters accordingly to maintain the desired consistency.
  • Melting and Mixing: Ensure Poppyderm is fully incorporated into the melted oil phase. Its oil-soluble nature means it won't blend into water, so an anhydrous balm or the oil phase of an emulsion is ideal.
  • Application: Apply a small amount of the balm to clean, dry skin on the face or body. Gently massage until absorbed. It can be used daily or as needed for areas experiencing redness, dryness, or irritation.
  • Storage: Store the balm in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to preserve the integrity of the oils and active ingredients. Anhydrous balms generally have a longer shelf life due to the absence of water, but always use a preservative if introducing any water to the formula.
  • Patch Test: As with any new product, perform a patch test on a small, inconspicuous area of skin to check for any sensitivities before full application.
  • Consistency: The consistency of the balm can be adjusted by altering the percentage of beeswax or butters. More beeswax will result in a firmer balm, while less will yield a softer consistency.
Characteristics:
INCI Maltodextrin, Papaver Rhoeas Flower Extract
Other
Application Application in cosmetics: products for sensitive skin, anti-aging serums, after-sun creams, children's cosmetics, after-shave products, anti-redness cosmetics, masks, body milk Application in other industries: cosmeceuticals, post-procedure care products, SPA cosmetics, natural dermatological products
Att brand France
Color product pale brown or beige
Dosage 0.5–2% in serums and creams, up to 3% in masks and gels, up to 5% in lotions and sprays
Features All information presented on the site is for reference only
Name Poppyderm 1 kg
Other names Poppy Petal Extract, Red Poppy Extract, Papaver Rhoeas Extract, Maca Active for Skin
Packaging container for transportation
Packing 1 kg
Properties has a pronounced calming effect, relieves redness, reduces skin sensitivity, protects against external irritants, improves the general condition of the skin, has an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect
Purpose active plant component for softening, soothing, protecting and restoring skin, especially sensitive and reactive
Solubility soluble in oils and fats, insoluble in water
View powder or fine powder
Valid until 09.2026
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