MONTANOV 68 1 kg

Montanov 68: The Emulsifier for Luxurious, Stable Emulsions

Discover the secret to crafting exceptionally stable, high-quality cosmetic emulsions with Montanov 68. This non-ionic, PEG-free, and readily biodegradable emulsifier is a true workhorse, allowing you to create rich, creamy textures that absorb beautifully into the skin. Derived from natural plant sources, Montanov 68 is a versatile ingredient that forms both oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, offering formulators immense flexibility.

Description and Key Features

Montanov 68 (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco-Glucoside) is a green, non-ethoxylated, and self-emulsifying base derived from sustainable vegetable origins (coconut and palm kernel oils, and cassava). It's part of the Montanov range, celebrated for its ability to create stable, lamellar liquid crystal emulsions that mimic the skin's natural lipid structure. This unique property enhances skin penetration and provides a silky, non-greasy feel.

Key features and benefits:

• Exceptional Emulsifying Power: Forms highly stable emulsions, preventing separation of oil and water phases, even with high oil loads or challenging ingredients.
• Versatile Emulsion Types: Capable of forming both oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, providing flexibility for different product textures and applications.
• Lamellar Liquid Crystal Structure: Creates a biomimetic lamellar structure that integrates seamlessly with the skin's lipid barrier, enhancing moisture retention and active ingredient delivery. This also contributes to the luxurious, non-greasy feel.
• Sensory Enhancer: Imparts a soft, smooth, and powdery feel on the skin, significantly improving the aesthetic appeal of your formulations. It creates a rich, creamy texture without being heavy.
• PEG-Free and Natural Origin: An excellent choice for natural and clean beauty formulations, aligning with consumer demand for more sustainable and skin-friendly ingredients.
• Good for Sensitive Skin: Its gentle nature makes it suitable for formulations intended for sensitive and delicate skin types.
• Cold Process Compatible (with limitations): While typically used in hot processes, some methods allow for cold process formulation, offering energy savings.
• Compatibility: Works well with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients, including active principles, plant extracts, and various oils.

Versatile Applications and Usage Areas in Cosmetics

Montanov 68's robust emulsifying capabilities and excellent sensory profile make it an ideal choice for a diverse array of cosmetic products (not for use in candles).

• Skin Care:
  • Face Creams and Lotions: Create nourishing and moisturizing creams for all skin types, including anti-aging, sensitive skin, and barrier repair formulations. The lamellar structure enhances the delivery of active ingredients.
  • Body Lotions and Butters: Formulate rich, hydrating body products that absorb well and leave the skin feeling soft and supple without a greasy residue.
  • Eye Creams: Its gentle nature is perfect for delicate eye area formulations, providing hydration and stability.
  • Serums (Creamy): Ideal for creating opaque, creamy serums that deliver active ingredients effectively while providing a pleasant skin feel.
  • Cleansing Milks and Balms: Use in creamy cleansers that effectively remove impurities while conditioning the skin.
• Sun Care:
  • Sunscreens (SPF Creams and Lotions): Its ability to create stable emulsions makes it suitable for sunscreens, ensuring an even distribution of UV filters and a pleasant application.
• Baby Care:
  • Due to its gentle and natural origin, Montanov 68 is an excellent emulsifier for baby creams, lotions, and balms, providing soothing and protective properties.
• Hair Care (Leave-on products):
  • Leave-in Conditioners and Hair Creams: Formulate conditioning creams that provide moisture, detangling, and frizz control without weighing down the hair.
  • Hair Masks: Create rich, nourishing hair masks for deep conditioning and repair.
• Make-up:
  • Foundations and Concealers: Contributes to the smooth spreadability and creamy texture of liquid or cream makeup products.

Recommended Dosage: The typical usage rate for Montanov 68 ranges from 3% to 7% as a primary emulsifier, depending on the desired consistency and oil phase percentage. For thicker creams or lotions, a higher percentage within this range can be used.

Cosmetic Recipe: "Silky Radiance" Hydrating Face Cream

Create a luxurious, deeply hydrating face cream with a beautiful, non-greasy finish using Montanov 68 as your primary emulsifier.

Instructions for Preparation:

1. Sanitize: Thoroughly sanitize all your equipment (heat-resistant beakers, stirring rods, containers) with isopropyl alcohol and allow them to air dry completely.
2. Prepare Phase A (Water Phase): In a heat-resistant beaker, combine distilled water and glycerin. Heat this phase to 70-75°C (158-167°F) on a hot plate or in a water bath.
3. Prepare Phase B (Oil Phase): In a separate heat-resistant beaker, combine Sweet Almond Oil, Shea Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Montanov 68, and Cetyl Alcohol. Heat this phase to 70-75°C (158-167°F) until all solid ingredients are completely melted and the phase is clear.
4. Emulsify: Slowly pour the hot water phase (Phase A) into the hot oil phase (Phase B) while continuously stirring with a stick blender or high-shear mixer. Blend for 2-3 minutes to ensure a stable emulsion forms. The mixture will start to turn white and thicken.
5. Cool Down: Continue stirring occasionally as the emulsion cools. You can place the beaker in an ice bath (without submerging the cream) to speed up cooling. Continue mixing until the temperature drops below 40°C (104°F).
6. Add Phase C (Cool Down Phase): Once the cream has cooled below 40°C, add D-Panthenol, Vitamin E, preservative, and fragrance oil (if using). Stir thoroughly for 1-2 minutes to ensure all ingredients are fully incorporated and evenly distributed.
7. Check pH (Recommended): Test the pH of your finished cream. For a face cream, an ideal pH range is typically 5.0-6.0. Adjust if necessary by adding a tiny drop of diluted lactic acid to lower pH or diluted baking soda solution to raise pH.
8. Package: Transfer the finished cream into a clean, sterile jar or airless pump bottle.

Recommendations for Application and Use:

• Heating: Ensure both water and oil phases reach the target temperature of 70-75°C and are held there for a few minutes before combining. This helps with proper melting and emulsion formation.
• Mixing: Thorough mixing during the emulsification stage is crucial for a stable product. A stick blender is highly recommended for emulsions.
• Cool Down: Continue stirring periodically during the cool-down phase to ensure a smooth, uniform texture and prevent separation.
• Dosage of Montanov 68: The 5% usage rate in this recipe provides a stable, medium-viscosity cream. For a thinner lotion, you could use 3-4%; for a thicker body butter, 6-7%.
• Storage: Store the finished cream in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight, to maintain its efficacy and extend shelf life. The preservative ensures microbial stability.
• Application: Apply a small amount of the cream to clean face and neck, morning and evening, or as needed for hydration.
• Patch Test: Always perform a patch test on a small, inconspicuous area of skin (e.g., inner forearm) before widespread use, especially if you have sensitive skin or are new to an ingredient.